The 18-point checklist
- Crawlspace vents: 19-gauge galvanised hardware cloth, quarter-inch mesh, screwed (not stapled) to the interior of every existing vent grille. The single highest-frequency Norway rat entry point in Metro Vancouver.
- Dryer vent: replace stock plastic damper with a metal backdraft damper that closes when the dryer is off. Inspect the vent pipe sleeve where it penetrates the wall.
- Bathroom and kitchen exhaust vents: same as dryer vent — metal damper plus sleeve check.
- Water service entry: pack stainless-steel mesh wool around the water line where it enters the foundation or sill plate. Close-cell foam over the wool.
- Gas line entry: same treatment as water service entry.
- Cable and telecom entries: frequently left as open drilled holes. Pack with mesh wool, foam over.
- A/C and heat pump line sets: the chase where copper refrigerant lines enter the exterior wall. Pack and foam.
- Soffit-fascia junction: install aluminum drip-edge trim with continuous bead along the full length where the soffit meets the fascia. Add hardware-cloth backer for gaps wider than 12 mm.
- Gable vents: retrofit 19-gauge hardware cloth, quarter-inch mesh, behind the existing louvre. Screw it in — staples pull out.
- Roof returns: pack with stainless mesh wool, closed-cell foam over. Inspect annually as moisture degrades foam over time.
- Foundation cracks: hydraulic cement for narrow cracks; mesh plus polyurethane caulk for wider gaps. Any crack at grade level larger than 6 mm.
- Garage door bottom: replace worn brush seal. Add threshold strip if the concrete has settled.
- Exterior door bottoms: replace rubber door sweeps at every exterior door. BC's wet climate degrades rubber sweeps in 3-5 years.
- Deck-to-house junction: pack the rim-joist gap with mesh wool and foam from underneath the deck. The gap between the rim joist and the deck framing is frequently 20-30 mm.
- Basement window well frames: if wood-framed, check for rot. If concrete, check for spalling gaps. Install window-well covers.
- Sewer lateral cleanout: confirm cap is intact and at grade level. Replace if settled.
- Plumbing stacks and roof penetrations: inspect the rubber boot at every roof penetration. Replace cracked boots and flash with roofing tape.
- Tree canopy and hydro lines (roof-rat supplement): trim any branch within 1 m of the roof. Inspect hydro-line connections at the roof entry point.
Materials comparison: what works and what fails
| Material | Lifespan in BC climate | Best use | Fails when |
|---|---|---|---|
| 19-gauge galvanised hardware cloth | 15-20+ years | Crawlspace vents, gable vents, perimeter mesh panels | Installed with staples instead of screws; not used on coastal salt-exposure sites |
| Stainless-steel mesh wool (e.g. Stuf-Fit) | 10-15 years | Utility penetration packing | Not supported by foam overcoat; left alone in contact with soil |
| Closed-cell expanding foam | 10-15 years (as overcoat only) | Backer over mesh wool; seal over hardware cloth edges | Used alone as primary barrier — rats chew through unprotected foam in hours |
| Aluminum flashing | 20+ years | Linear soffit-fascia gaps, ridge junctions, dormer flashing | Poorly fastened; not sealed at edges with sealant |
| Polyurethane caulk | 5-8 years | Cosmetic seal over hardware repairs; crack fill with backer rod | Used alone on gaps > 3 mm; applied to wet or dirty surfaces |
| Standard weatherstripping caulk | 2-5 years | Thermal sealing — door and window frames only | Any gap larger than 1 mm where rodent pressure exists |
| Copper mesh | 15-20+ years (rust-free) | Coastal properties or stainless-mesh substitution | No advantage over stainless in non-coastal applications; more expensive |
The photo-documentation requirement
The Wild Pest Pillar 2 is that every customer receives the photo report within 30 minutes of job completion. For exclusion work, this means a geo-tagged before-and-after photo at every sealed entry point from the checklist above. Each photo is labelled: entry point type, location on the home, material used. This documentation serves three purposes: it gives the homeowner a record of exactly what was done and where, it creates a baseline for annual inspection so any degraded seal is immediately identifiable, and it provides documentation for insurance purposes if rodent damage claims are ever disputed.
What homeowners can do vs what requires a pro
How to
Prioritising exclusion work by DIY feasibility
Not all 18 points are equally accessible. This breakdown lets homeowners prioritise what they can safely address themselves.
- 1DIY-accessible: points 1-6 and 12-17Ground-level foundation work — crawlspace vents, utility penetrations, door bottoms, deck junction, sewer cleanout — can all be addressed by a homeowner with hardware cloth, mesh wool, and closed-cell foam. Budget 4-6 hours for a typical detached home. Use a paint-on silicone as final seal on any foam overcoat exposed to weathering.
- 2DIY-possible with a ladder and caution: points 7-8Soffit-fascia work on a single-storey section is manageable with a 6-foot ladder and proper footing. Do not attempt on multi-storey sections or sloped approaches. The aluminum drip-edge trim installs with tin snips and roofing screws.
- 3Hire a pro: points 9-11 and 18Gable vents, roof returns, roof penetrations, and canopy management all require rooftop access, proper anchoring, and for sloped roofs above 6/12 pitch — fall-arrest equipment. The Wild Pest team carries proper anchoring kit for all roof exclusion work. The cost of a fall from a wet Vancouver roof far exceeds the cost of professional exclusion.
Annual maintenance is the factor that converts a one-time exclusion job into permanent protection. Every fall — ideally October before the wet season peaks — walk the perimeter with a flashlight and check the mesh wool fills and foam overcoats at every utility penetration. Tap the hardware cloth panels to confirm they're still screw-secured (staples pull out within 2-3 BC winters). Look for any new foundation cracks that appeared over the summer. A 20-minute annual walk-around catches any degraded seal before it becomes a rodent entry point.
Frequently asked questions
How long does a professional exclusion job take?+
A typical Metro Vancouver detached home takes 3-5 hours for a tech to inspect and seal all 18 points. Heritage stock with more original gaps takes longer. The job runs in parallel with the rodent treatment deployment so you're not scheduling two separate visits.
What does exclusion cost?+
A full 18-point exclusion job on a typical Metro Van SFH runs $600-$1,800 depending on size, roof complexity, and existing material condition. Heritage character homes with cedar-shake roofs and original crawlspace vents are toward the top of that range. The cost is typically recovered within 18 months by eliminating the recurring trap-and-bait service cycle.
Does exclusion void my home warranty?+
No — sealing pest entry points does not affect structural warranties. Check that any sealant applied to flashing doesn't void a roofing material warranty (unlikely but worth confirming with the roofing contractor if roof work was recent).
Can rodents chew through hardware cloth?+
19-gauge galvanised hardware cloth is too hard for rodents to chew through. Softer materials (fiberglass screen, plastic mesh, chicken wire) are not rodent-resistant and should not be used. The hardness of 19-gauge steel is the critical specification — lighter gauge or non-metallic mesh will fail.